Terrain, Tour Guide, and Drivers

The roads in Kenya and Tanzania are generally in very poor condition and this tour featured LOTS and LOTS of driving, sometimes covering long distances in one day.  While I can't confirm the number, someone said that we covered nearly 2,000 miles after we landed in Nairobi.  I can definitely say it felt like we travelled at least that much.  Our tour guide, Amani, described the roads that we would cover in the following way:  smooth but smooth - a paved road that was smooth and one where we could go fast;  smooth but rough - a paved road that was full of pot-holes, cracks, etc.;  rough but smooth - an unpaved road, but one that was fairly smooth and you could maintain a good speed although you bounced quite a bit;  and finally rough but rough - a VERY rough, bumpy and practically impassable road where you had to drive VERY slowly.  Here are some pictures of the roads we traveled:  (Can you identify each type of road?)

Our tour guide was Amani A. Mnyangala.  He accompanied us throughout our safari, alternating vehicles each day.  Amani was great and had the patience of Job!  He was extremely knowledgeable and I think he answered every one of our questions in perfect English.  He studied wildlife in college and obviously loved his job.  He not only explained about the animals, plants, and terrain, but also things about Kenya and Tanzania.  He is a native of Tanzania and had obvious pride in the direction that Tanzania was going economically, educationally, and politically.  He was a wealth of information.

Amani

Amani and his beautiful wife.

While Amani was with us from the time we landed in Nairobi until we left, the drivers did change.  To begin with our drivers were Peter and Steve.  Skip and I only rode with Peter, who we found quite competent and enjoyable.  Others who rode with Steve were likewise complimentary.  When we crossed the border into Tanzania we had to change drivers since Kenyan drivers were not allowed to drive in Tanzania and visa versa.  We hated to leave Peter and Steve, but we had no choice.

Upon crossing the border into Tanzania we met our new drivers, Prosper and Gonja (or something like that).  We were having lunch at a very nice outdoor place when we met the new drivers.  Immediately many of us questioned the well-being of the Gonja.  He seemed to be either sick, drunk, or on drugs.  We were all alarmed and many of us said we didn't want him driving.  Amani said the black circles under his eyes (blackeyes) were from a bite from a Nairobi fly.  When Emily, the regional OAT manager, arrived, we again expressed our concern to her.  Ultimately, it was decided that we should get a new driver.  (Later we were told that Gonja had been mugged the night before and was on medication (too much), and yet later we were told that he had to be hospitalized).  As sorry as I was for Gonja, I certainly was very happy to have a driver that I had more confidence in because we were about to go into the MIDDLE OF NOWHERE!!

It took several hours to secure a new driver for the balance of the trip.  We passed the time at a cultural/shopping area.  Eventually our new driver, Selemani, arrived.  Selemani was a wonderful driver who also had a great deal of experience as a tour guide as well.  While I rode with both Prosper and Selemani, and liked them both a great deal, I especially like Selemani.  He was very engaging and answered all questions openly and honestly.

In both Kenya and Tanzania, we had closed-sided 4x4 vehicles with roof hatches.  Everyone had a window seat.  The hatch lifted up from the roof for 360 degree viewing.  Walking outside our vehicle was strictly prohibited during our game-viewing drives for two specific reasons:  1) to protect the animals from excessive disturbances by people and 2) to keep us safe as we came close to the wildlife.  And boy, did we come close... you could practically reach out and touch the animals.  Amani, Prosper, and Selemani were excellent wildlife spotters with a thorough knowledge of African animal behavior.  How they spotted some of the animals I will never know!  And often with the naked eye.  We learned early on to be very still and patient when Selemani lifted his binoculars because something great was sure to come... like the cheetah or leopard!!!